10 faults 1.8t 20v conversion HELP!!
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Wiring faults? Ecu problems?
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You can send the ecu off to an expert to be tested (I don't know anyone to recommend myself, hopefully someone can chime in or google). Your options on ecu:
1. Send ecu for test & repair - cost unknown
2. Buy 2nd hand ecu (£25 on eBay) & have immob deleted (£25) - cost £50
3. Buy 2nd hand ecu (£25 on eBay) & have immob deleted & remapped to circa 200bhp - cost £150'ish
4. Borrow an immob deleted AEB ecu off a friend or forum member - cost £0 but this is not the most common of engine codes so you'll be lucky if someone has one handy
If you can find a company to just test the ecu, then if found faulty repair usually quite expensive. Option 2 cheapest option to replace in this case
Last edit: by Cushti
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Cushti said
Where is the ecu located in the car? Some conversions do not extend the wiring so the ecu is sometimes left in the engine bay so can suffer from over-heating, water ingress e.t.c.
You can send the ecu off to an expert to be tested (I don't know anyone to recommend myself, hopefully someone can chime in or google). Your options on ecu:
1. Send ecu fit test & repair - cost unknown
2. Buy 2nd hand ecu (£25 on eBay) & have immob deleted (£25) - cost £50
3. Buy 2nd hand ecu (£25 on eBay) & have immob deleted & remapped to circa 200bhp - cost £150'ish
4. Borrow an immob deleted AEB ecu off a friend or forum member - cost £0 but this is not the most common of engine codes so you'll be lucky if someone has one handy
If you can find a company to just test the ecu, then if found faulty repair usually quite expensive. Option 2 cheapest option to replace in this case
Would i have to replace the ecu with the same on or can i use an agu ecu? Also my car is running a k04 and uprated induction etc and uprated injectors so i dont suppose buying an ecu that is remapped to 200bhp is worth it as i would need a custom remap wont i? I have been looking st remaps for a while but wanted to sort the engine out before i do it as i have no proof the ecu has been remapped before tbh with you. Or would i just be better off getting the standard ecu with immo delete? Cheers for your response 👍
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nick flude said
Your ecu is toast pal wouldn't be wiring if all them codes coming up a1.8 t ain't that unreliable .you probably got water in ecu
Brilliant i will start looking at ecus then mate cheers 👍
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Cushti said
Where is the ecu located in the car? Some conversions do not extend the wiring so the ecu is sometimes left in the engine bay so can suffer from over-heating, water ingress e.t.c.
You can send the ecu off to an expert to be tested (I don't know anyone to recommend myself, hopefully someone can chime in or google). Your options on ecu:
1. Send ecu for test & repair - cost unknown
2. Buy 2nd hand ecu (£25 on eBay) & have immob deleted (£25) - cost £50
3. Buy 2nd hand ecu (£25 on eBay) & have immob deleted & remapped to circa 200bhp - cost £150'ish
4. Borrow an immob deleted AEB ecu off a friend or forum member - cost £0 but this is not the most common of engine codes so you'll be lucky if someone has one handy
If you can find a company to just test the ecu, then if found faulty repair usually quite expensive. Option 2 cheapest option to replace in this case
Also the ecu is under the dashboard
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You need to speak to an 1.8t ecu mapper & ask for advice. They can test your current ecu & go through your options if it's at fault.
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Cushti said
If you have all those mods then getting another AEB ecu will be no good. Like you said your engine needs a custom map as the AEB never came with the K04 or other uprated injectors. Also you cannot use other engine code ecus instead.
You need to speak to an 1.8t ecu mapper & ask for advice. They can test your current ecu & go through your options if it's at fault.
Have just googled that ecu and it seems like it is off an agu engine not an aeb engine…
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The ecu needs to be checked out in my opinion & a expert should be able to tell if it's got a custom file on it and/or if it's faulty
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If the engine runs better with a working Maf unplugged then that can mean many things but my experience with this has usually led to a dodgy O2 sensor or vacuum leak. Have you checked the inter-cooler & hoses yet?
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using vag com that would probably
eliminate the guess work if the car
actualy a runner
Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
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For example, these are the main maf maps of various ones and as you can see they are different, using the wrong one therefore will knacker your air flow monitoring up stright away and obv. with the air/fuel aspects this is a bad thing.
Old Motronic, none ME fly by wire like the older AGU's can be quite different than the newer ME7 stuff, you can see how the map is not related to a direct voltage like the two newer ones, you can see 2 different flow rates on the newer ones due to size difference of maf/hfm;
1.8T MLHFM by Rick B, on Flickr
So, say you use an S3 maf and are using a k03 engined car with ME, you can copy over the values from the S3 maf with the higher flow rate to the middle one your ecu would be set up for. Same for fuel and so on as a quick way to match up a k03/k04 mish mash of parts.
Once your air and fuel maps are sorted like that, then you go through what parts you are/aren't using in the conversion, VVT ecu and a none VVT engine for example, you modify it to suit and so on.
Rocco S3 variant files by Rick B, on Flickr
I'd say the best fix is to use a pedal box and get an ME7 ecu, either k03 or k04 doesn't really matter, but try and match the engine, so if you are running old Motronic and are using a none VVT engine, get a none VVT but newer ME7 ecu as it is nearer to spec and less to change.
You can get a cheap MPPS V13's or I'd get a V18 if you can afford it. Then you can read the ecu and have access to everything to change then, it'll save time and effort in future too for remote tuning and they have a checksum button.
If you change to ME/Pedal box, get an immo off ecu and get a read when you plug it in your car, get a list of code faults and work from there, these will generally be;
- VVT or not, fly-by-wire or not (M vs ME Motronic), maf/hfm size, injector size, 02 sensors/heating/cats, SAI/EVAP's and then some possible wiring/ABS and the like dep on your conversion - a complex one may take a half hour/hour or so on the ecu if you know what you are doing and have a good def file if you do it yourself.
Last edit: by mk1-400
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