Cam cover gasket replacement

On its annual service today, the dealer mentioned that my car ('93 clipper) was leaking oil, probably from the cam belt cover. They said they had to get the cover from Heritage and it would take some time to sort.

Not really that keen on it (car is only doing about 200 miles a year), so was wondering if it is an easy DIY job to replace the gasket. Did a bit of a google on it, and it seems there is a rubber replacement kit for it?

If it is easy enough, I would prefer to do it myself instead of paying the dealer £140 for the pleasure (+ £30 for the gasket from Heritage they said).

Replaced the starter last year, so reasonably happy doing mechanical bits.

£140 for changing the cam cover gasket…      

It's an 1/2 hr job !!! Your garage is pulling your trousers down and doing things to you!!

You can get a new gasket for £14
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK1-MK2-SCIROCCO-VALVE-ROCKER-CAM-COVER-GASKET-RUBBER-CONVERSION-A323-/221457539536?fits=Model%3AGolf&hash=item338fe5e1d0:g:bokAAMXQlgtSpxNg

There is nothing wrong with a cork gasket as long as you don't over tighten it as it gets squashed and leaks.
Cork gasket.
http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Volkswagen_Golf+Cabriolet_1.8_1992/p/car-parts/engine-parts/engine-parts1/car-gasket-seals/?368440020&1&b643cc910832ac62603af1cab04152f27c933fa0&000541

Rubber gaskets are slightly better as you don't really need to fit a new gasket if you remove the cam cover.   

The hardest bit is removing the old studs as you need to fit the new studs which come with the gasket as they are different to the cork gasket studs. You can screw on 2 of the nuts and lock them together with a couple of spanners and then put the spanner on the bottom nut and unscrew the stud carefully as you don't want to shear it off in the head.
Remove all 8 studs and refit the new studs using the 2 nuts locked together, (spanner on the top nut the screw them in) they don't need to be tight in the head, just nipped up.
There is 4 long studs in the pack which you don't need as they are for the Mk3 golf as that is what the kit is from.
Once the cover is back on the nut's holding it down only need to be nipped up, I use a socket on an extension bar with out any thing on the end and do it up as tight as I can hold the bar, then just another 1/8 turn (may be less) with a ratchet on the bar.   
Then re check in about a week or any oil leaks and if you find any just a little tighter.

Thanks for that info and the links. Yes, £140 + £30 = £170 for a gasket replacement seemed very excessive.

When you replace the gasket, do you have to drain the oil first or can it be done "as is" ?

Ordered the rubber kit, nice tip on the stud removal as well.

pvr said

Ordered the rubber kit, nice tip on the stud removal as well.

You don't need to drain the oil, but you will get a few drips as the underside of the cover gets oil spray when the engine is running. Just a bit of cloth or kitchen roll to wipe it clean. You might also need to remove any gasket sealer that's been applied to the bottom of the cover/top of head.
Nice little job to do….only takes a short while and save yourself a few quid!

Not sure which engine you have in your 93 car, do you have a picture of the engine you can post up?
No oil change or major work needed but you will need to unplug/remove a few pipes etc but you may have a car with digifant injection system and not the k-jet as you remove different things so post up a picture and I'll be able to help as I've worked on both engines as I've owned cars with both engines.

yeh man… rubber rocker cover gasket is the way… i didn't do mine.. got the local to do it a few months back £40 plus replaced all the studs. happy days.  there's you tube vids on how to do it & on the forum here 'how to…' Good luck bud & hope you get it sorted soon with minimal cost.. 

The car is at the dealer at the moment as it failed the MOT on a binding rear wheel, so can't take a picture of the engine.

Can I use the license plate to work it out? Or is this part engine picture good enough to identify?

Hint, only use 1 drop of RED RTV at the cam seal where it meets the cork gasket.

Clean all surfaces Head, and Valve cover.
Inspect the Valve cover mesh and you may want to clean it with Brake Cleaner, and or whatever.

When you replace the rebar over the studs and tighten the nuts,

Start in the middle and work crosswise to the ends similar to doing head bolts.

Use a torque wrench and apply no more than 87in/lbs or  9.83Nm that is the baby bear and is just right.  Over torque and you have issue with leaks under torque and you have issues with leaks,  The BABY BEAR is perfect.

I have both the cork on one and the Rubber on another, and both service well, the cork will last about 8-10 years prior to leaking because of brittleness.

Thanks for the torque settings. Are you aware of any video available re the best approach?

Any thoughts on what needs to be taken apart to get to it? Or do I need to put up a better picture of the entire engine so it can be identified?

How I change my 92, qnd 93 Digi Cabriolet Auto
http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/24508-How-to-Replace-your-Valve-Cover-Gasket.-90-93-Cabby

Just to update - I got a local independent to fit it as they charged £40 and that was cheap enough for me not to do it myself.

They used my supplied (rubber) gasket.

Thanks again for the help in identifying.