Strut bearings?

Somethings wrong with my suspension and from what I've read it sounds like it could be the strut bearings. I've had a look about online but can't seem to find any, and in fact the diagrams I've looked at don't include them.

Do Mk1s have strut bearings? Or some other system?

The upper bearing is part of the top mount (the big rubber thing that the strut shaft bolts into and 2 smaller bolts to the inner wing/strut tower).

If worn/rusty (water gets in) makes steering heavy.

What the problem with your suspension?

Early-1800 said

The upper bearing is part of the top mount (the big rubber thing that the strut shaft bolts into and 2 smaller bolts to the inner wing/strut tower).

If worn/rusty (water gets in) makes steering heavy.

What the problem with your suspension?

The steering feels vague and there is a juddering sensation when going over bumps. Some times, especially when turing, there is a clunk noise. It also feels a bit 'drifty' when going in a straight line.

Reading online, these point to the strut bearings (and rack, but that's another issue).

Could be anything and everything….

Worn shocks, badly setup tracking/camber, worn wishbone bushes/ball joint, uneven worn or mismatched tyres, broken spring, loose hub nut.

Is it standard or been dropped 12 inch on coilies and running 19 alloys with 30 profile tyres??

Sounds like a broken spring to me buddy

Try your CV's if there's a clunk…. 

Early-1800 said

Could be anything and everything….

Worn shocks, badly setup tracking/camber, worn wishbone bushes/ball joint, uneven worn or mismatched tyres, broken spring, loose hub nut.

Is it standard or been dropped 12 inch on coilies and running 19 alloys with 30 profile tyres??

It's standard.

Tyres have been replaced recently and wheels have been aligned so I can cross those off.

It was a 'barn find' of sorts, so don't know the service history. I would suspect nothing has ever been replaced.

Early-1800 said

The upper bearing is part of the top mount (the big rubber thing that the strut shaft bolts into and 2 smaller bolts to the inner wing/strut tower).

Forgive my ignorance, is this the corresponding part?

https://au.vwheritage.com/shop/golf-cabriolet/171498329A/top-strut-mount-kit-mk1-golf-scirocco-jetta/?crumbStartPage=1&crumbStartRow=1

That's the fellow.

Might be worth replacing the top mount and shock inserts (the parts that deteriorate with age and mileage).

Whilst replacing these you can check all the others parts (wishbone, spring, drive shaft, hub, steering rack, etc)

Early-1800 said

That's the fellow.

Yep, think you're right. I took off each wheel, jacked in up and checked it out. The springs seem visually fine and the tie rods and steering rack seem solid - I pulled and wiggled them around as much as I could and they seemed fine.

The big problem seemed to be the passenger side strut. I could move it back and forth with a little clunking noise. Inspection under the bonnet revealed the nut on top of the strut at strut tower was moving slightly.

So, I'm guessing this is the main problem. I will start by replacing both struts and mount kits.

Ta for your help!

There are tricks and tips for the struts.  One is that the inner bearing or spacer  of the strut mount is taller than it should be allowing the strut to move up and down in the mount, this space can also allow dirt to enter the bearing and cause it to bind. This bind can cause either the spring to move in the seat on a turn and then "pop" back in place, or a groaning sound on a turn that will "POP" back in to place once the rubber of the mount is released on completion of the turn and returns to center.

The spacer should be even with the top of the mount, and not exceed the width.  It should be barely even or barely above the mount, so that the strut can pivot with out catching.  On some of the newer mounts I have purchased this inner spacer or bearing was about 1/8 inch taller than it should of been and had to be filed down.

Two other things I have noticed are that the pressed studs on the mount have been cost reduced on some makers, and that they can spin loose when tightening.

I had that happen, and was forced to fix it on the car.
So I have taken to welding the stud at one side from underneath to prevent that from happening.  If you don't and your stud spins, then you can't tighten or loosen it.

One way to resolve is to Weld it in place.  That is I had my son use vice-grips to hold the nut up tight to the mount,  and I welded the stud in place with my wire welder.  It wasn't fun, but it did allow me to resolve the condition I was in.

Another tip, is to fill the new mount from underneath a week prior to install with 3M window weld filling this gap will assist in longevity of the mount, but will also increase the hight of the stance. Doing this the one or two weeks before allows the Window weld to fully cure, and prevent it from oozing out.




How I change out my Front Struts.
Replacing Front Struts, and Mounts | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

Beefing up your Front Strut Mounts.
http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/93529-Beefing-up-the-Strut-mount

Replacing your rear Shocks.
http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/32174-How-to-replace-your-Rear-Struts
 

Briano1234 said

There are tricks and tips for the struts.  One is that the inner bearing or spacer  of the strut mount is taller than it should be allowing the strut to move up and down in the mount, this space can also allow dirt to enter the bearing and cause it to bind. This bind can cause either the spring to move in the seat on a turn and then "pop" back in place, or a groaning sound on a turn that will "POP" back in to place once the rubber of the mount is released on completion of the turn and returns to center.
 

Hey thanks for all the info! Much appreciated!

Yeah there is a definite and concerning 'pop' when turning some times.

Thanks for posting on such an old thread!