Latest bodge discovered

Having now managed to get the rebuilt 1.8 gti engine in my caddy running, Im now trying to sort out other wiring issues.
As problems before, its a 1989 caddy with a 1981 series 1 dashboard, fusebox and wiring loom fitted. The fuel gauge and temp gauge on the dash arent working. I have checked the wiring to the fuel gauge sender unit in the tank and found that the previous owner, who was trying to rebuild the caddy, had connected the brown (neg) wire from the sender unit to an ign live (WTH).
The other wire (lilac/black) comes from plug F on the fuse box. Would this have caused damage to the sender or the fuel gauge?

its possible yes, only way to know is wire it properly and see!

Here's the next question for the magnificent Rubjonny and all you other wonderful auto sparkies.
Im trying to get to the bottom of the reason why my fuel and temp gauges arent working, as per my initial post.
Ive traced all the wires going to the 14 pin plug at the back of the instrument cluster, but Im struggling to work out where the blue/yellow wire from T14/1 is supposed to go. It appears to have been plugged into G5 which I believe is ignition live and to which I dont think is correct.
The rest of the wires are as follows:-




T14/2 blue/red from D1 at fuse box
T14/3 blue/white from D22
T14/4 red from D15
T14/5 brown from earth above fuse box
T14/6 grey/blue from hazard switch
T14/7 black from E2
T14/8 lilac/black from E12
T14/9 yellow/red from D8
T14/10 blue from D2
T14/11 blue/black from D18

this should help

T14 - S1 dash
2 - blu/red - Fusebox pin D/1 (indicator warning light)
3 - blu/wht - Fusebox pin D/22 (main beam warning light)
4 - red - Fusebox pin D/15 (rev counter)
5 - brn - Earth claw behind fusebox
6 - gry/blu - light switch pin 58b (dash illumination)
7 - blk - ignition switch pin 15 (ignition live)
8 - pur/blk - Fusebox pin E/12 (fuel gauge)
9 - yel/red - Fusebox pin D/8 (coolant temp)
10 - blu - Fusebox pin D/2 (alternator warning light)
11 - blu/blk - Fusebox pin D/18 (oil pressure switch)

pin 1 im not sure what this is for, but G/5 is on the battery warning light circuit, so clearly this is wrong. If I had to guess I would think choke light perhaps? leave it off for now anyway its not needed for main clock function.

Check all the clock plug pins are nice and straight, they can get a bit squashed. pop open the retaining flap on the back then you can pull the pins out to bend them back into shape, while you're there check the blue pcb foil is good on the clocks. Chortle had a great tip of packing this out with a sheet of card to get a tighter fit to the plug

your ignition live location is ok too, the switch goes back to E/2 on the fusebox as well as direct to the clocks, so as long as its hooked up 1 side or the other this is all good. just make sure you see a good 12v feed between the black and brown with ignition on

Thanks Jonny

Wrap some insulation tape around the plastic nub the foil connector fits over.
This packs it out for a better contact.
Card might be to thick?
With tape you can control the thickness.
Also gently clean the copper contacts.

I think Ive gotten to the bottom of the problem now. It would appear to be the voltage stabiliser that has been causing the problem.