DX to ABF conversion wiring

I'm having a look at the wiring whilst i'm waiting for my new engine bits to come in the post.

I've had a look at the Electrical FAQ and seen this picture:



However my 81 Mk1 (which has a later 83 Gti cabby wiring installed) has the wire for the ignition coil pin (D26) from the white engine loom plug to a relay on top of the fusebox along with other wires.

What is this relay for?  Is it to do with the K-Jet and therefore i don't need it for the ABF as i am going to try and run it on the ABF management?

that i believe is an idle control relay, either way no you do not need it.

I'm going to try and sort out the abf and original mk1 looms over the next couple of nights so I was wondering if anyone had the info that used to be on http://www.dannyp.info/abf-loom-prep as it no longer works.

If anyone has the text, info and pictures could you pm me and I'll give  you my email address?

I've got rubjonny's abf wiring diagrams which sort of make sense, but any extra info would be great.

Cheers

what i do is fit ecu relay on holder above the fusebox, use the old idle control relay holder and repin it to suit

coil bin the mk3 rubbish and convert it to run a mk2 coil + tci (you can use your old tci + loom, but the coil itself will probably need changing for a later mk2)
to make this work chop the dizzy plug off the old tci loom, bin 2 of the wires and splice the last wire from tci pin 6 to the red/green wire to the mk3 coil plug. chop out the mk3 black and brown wires, keep the mk1 coil black and red/black wires.


strip the abf loom down, remove the lighting, battery +ve and -ve wires, fan controller, fan etc. anythign that isnt connected to the ecu. you'll be left with an earth wire from the ecu, splice this into the TCI loom earth to battery.

you can keep your old fuel pump relay if you like, but i would add in pin D/13 and swap to a digi type 67/80/167 pump relay, same as what abf uses. but as i say mk1 relay is fine so long as its the type without a rev limiter in it (gsf sell this if you need it)

then its a case of matching abf wires left over to mk1 fusebox wires! you can keep the mk1 alternator, reverse switch and starter motor trigger wiring too. just chop the mk3 abf alt blue wire off with a good length of loom, then crimp a spade on it so it joins up with the blue wire near the battery +ve on the mk1 lighting loom.

you can bin the carbon canister plug, thats the 2 pin with black and green/yel wires which is on driver chassis leg area, with the inlet temp and lambda plugs.

anything you get stuck on, hit me up
these may help too:
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/golf91.pdf (shows abf fusebox internal traces)
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/jetta89.pdf (shows your fusebox internal traces)

rubjonny said

anything you get stuck on, hit me up

Cheers for that, I may just do that    

I'll be doing no chopping (unless I have to) until I get the engine going then I'll tidy it up. I have the added delight of having an immobilised ecu but I do have the keys and transponder ring and small black box.

Hopefully when it's all layed out in front of me it'll make more sense!

ah so are you going to run the mk3 fusebox then?

these you'll need for immob + vag-com:
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g3immobilisor.pdf
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g3vagcom.pdf

rubjonny said

ah so are you going to run the mk3 fusebox then?

Wasn't planning to. Just meant that I would try not to cut a wire if I could help it.  Although I do have the mk3 fusebox but I didn't keep all the wiring from the mk3 donor car.

I guess it would be a lot easier to use the mk1 fusebox as all interior looms etc can be left alone.

I will lay the looms next to each other and take it nice and slowly   

ah right ok i gets ya. yeah theres no need to convert to the mk3 stuff, late mk1 blade fusebox is fine

I managed to take all the electrical tape covering off the Mk3 ABF loom last night then re-taped it every 18inches to keep it in some sort of order.

I am now looking at what to do with the existing Mk1 loom.  Do i need to take the white and yellow fusebox plug looms out of the car I.e. C and D in the FAQ fuse box layout diagram?  I was looking at it and thinking it looks like i really only need to remove the white D loom,  from the vehicle, is that right?

Just looking at the best way to tackle it really  :redfaced:

Cheers

Progress  

I stripped the ABF loom right back last night so i have now only got the following: -

Connect to engine

main engine connector with all wires attached
2 knock sensor plugs  (These and the one below are the 3 plugs next to the main engine connector)
Engine speed sender

ECU

With all wires still attached

Fusebox end

Quite a few wires!  

I have the carbon cannister with a green/yellow wire going to the ecu and a black towards the fusebox area which i thought i could get rid of both?  

Also the Intake air temp sender in that area too, what do i do with this as the MK3 airbox is way too big, so i was thinking of getting a cone filter and protecting it as best as possible from the heat of the engine.


Is the fusebox end where i should only have the 6 or 7 ECU wires I.e :

1 - earth
6 - fuel pump relay earth trigger
7 - starter motor live feed
9 - ignition live feed
23- ecu relay output, can use good ign live if you want, i wire an ecu relay above fusebox
33- earth
38- ignition live feed
43- diagnostics connection, goes to immob box wire

Cheers for the help  

yeah you only need to take out the engine loom, which is to the white D plug. it may have a couple spade connectors here n there depending on age/model tho.

you can bin the carbon canister wires yup! plus there's a plug on the engine bit which sits on the driver side near the tps and idle switch with a brown and a black wire, this is breather heater and that can be binned too. intake air temp you'll need to keep, as well as the lambda probe. only option for abf in mk1is to use a cone filter, unless you can find the rare as hell mk1 diesel airbox that sits on the driver wing and adapt.

1 - earth, this runs in the engine loom, and is joined to the chunky brown wire to the battery. what i do is remove both the battery wires from the MK3 loom, since these are in your MK1 engine loom
the mk3 battery earth has several brown wires spliced to it, but by the time you cut out all the stuff you don't need you'll only have 1 earth left which is for the ecu. this wire i splice to the battery earth wire from the TCI unit. i mention how to retain the TCI unit above, so you can bin the mk3 coil and switch to a more reliable mk2 coil. (need mk2 coil as the mk1 coil doesn't match up to the abf spark plug leads, mk1 TCI works fine tho)

6 - fuel pump earth trigger this runs to the MK1 fusebox pin D/13. you may have a wire here if it was a carby? if not you can get another mk1/2 CE1 loom and chop this pin out if you like. the alternative is to use a Kjet relay without a rev limiter, then you dont need this wire.

7 - starter feed from the factory this would run to a spade connector hanging off pin C/18. this will be here if your car was a k-jet. if not you can either add this, or just splice to the chunky red/black wire. what i do is strip around 4mm of insulation off it, but dont cut the wire. next wrap the abf wire round it, then secure with a bit of solder and tape up.

9 - ign live ecu relay reference feed
23 - ign live feed from ecu relay

with these 2 I wire the proper ABF ECU relay above the fusebox in a VW relay holder so it will clip on top for neatness. you can use a simple switched relay for the ecu feed and give the reference feed any ign live if you like. its your call on that one

33 - sensor reference earth, this one runs to a ring terminal on the side of the head via the big round ecu loom plug on the front of the engine. so you dont need to touch this one

38 - ign live feed, this also powers the ISV. find a fused live for it, D/2 or D/7 would be a good place

43 - diagnostics, yeah this goes to the immob box or the vag-com port, depending on the age of the abf ECU. pre-96 there is no immobiliser, post-96 there is

Thanks for that, a fair bit to read through and try to understand. I'll do one bit at a time.  I've found the number 30 and 167 relays as suggested above.

Where does the air intake temp plug go, will there be a socket on the new cone?

This maybe a really stupid question but I somehow broke the coil spark lead when trying to get it out of the old dizzy cap.  Would I be able to use the old mk1 lead and therefore use the mk1 coil? The mk1 lead seems to fit the new abf dizzy cap, are the leads rated differently?  The 4 abf spark leads are fine, just the coil lead that broke!

the problem is the style of the leqads, if you look at the ends the mk1 cables have liek an open wing arrangement, where the mk2/abf leads have a pin arrangement. hard to explain! but you cant mix n match as that buggers up the strength of the spark as they wont make a good contact.

air intake just needs to go into the inlet tract somewhere, buy the right cone filter and it'll have a hole for you, or just drill a hole in it yourself and secure. it just needs to be a good interference fit, the inlet is under vacuum rather than pressure so it should stay put.

you're looking at around £40 for a set of good 16v leads, or you could nip to scrappy and find a mk2 or mk3 to pinch the coil lead from. you also need the later coil to match so be on the look out for a mk2 golf or a later cabby/rocco

as i say new bits aint spensive tho
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/VW_Parts.htm

Had a lot of success last night with sorting out the abf loom.  Started to understand it all a bit i think  I now only have 9   wires that are plugged into the ecu that i have to deal with at the fusebox end of things.  They are:

6 - Yel/blu - Fuel pump relay - I have relay No 2 in position 2 on the MK1 CE1 fusebox, so no need for this wire, will this be ok?

7 - Red - Starter feed - I will connect this to the red/blk connector coming from C18 on the yellow plug, correct?

8 - Grn/red - Coil pin 2 - This will get spliced to the grn/wht wire on the MK1 dizzy plug.

9 - Blk/red - Ign live ref feed - This needs to be wired to ECU relay No. 30 above fusebox, is it pin 86a?

22 - Grn/wht - Dash? - I presume not needed?

23 - Blk/yel - Ign live feed - This needs to be wired to ECU relay No. 30 above fusebox, is it pin 87?

35 - Blu/wht - Speed signal - I presume not needed?

38 - Blk/wht - Ign live feed - No pin D2 on white Mk1 loom so connect to D7, correct? However pin D7 blk/yel used to go to relay 43 then to the white plug on the DX engine throttle body.  I have no idea with this one  :dontknow:

51 - Purp/wht - Dash? - I presume not needed?

I'm struggling with the wiring for the ECU relay.  There are 5 pins on the No 30 relay.  This is what i think, is it correct though!

30 - To +ve supply, but it should be fused shouldn't it?
85 - Earth
86 - To a switched live?
86a - ECU pin 9
87 - ECU pin 23

Or am i totally wrong??  :dontknow:

6 - only required if you want a digi type pump relay, if you use a k-jet relay then this is triggered by the rev counter signal instead. 2 relay has no rev limiter too which is what you want

7 - yep pop that to the spade hanging out of C/18

8 - this runs to the TCI unit pin 6, which is usually green/white

9 - yep, pin 86a on ecu relay

22 - mk3 dash rev counter signal, wont work mk1 dash/pump relay so not used

23 - yep, pin 87 on ecu relay

35 - nope not needed

38 - any ign live feed. D7 is fine, relay 43 is the coolant level control relay and the wire to the tb was probably for the cold throttle enrichment system.

51 - mk3 mpg signal for mfa

yep you got the ecu relay wiring spot on. pin 30 doesnt have to be fused but it can be if you like. i never bother though

Blimey, didn't expect that answer  I was getting ready to start from scratch again.

I just need to sort out where to put the ECU, i've read next to the fusebox.  Will the vacuum pipe that goes to the back of the inlet manifold reach?  And if it does go here i presume i will have to chop all the wires to the 28 pin connector and then re-connect them in the engine bay as it isn't going to go throught the existing loom hole.

2 more wire questions!

- Where does the red/wht wire from the lambda probe go?  I think i remember reading that it is for the heater element  :dontknow: so does it need a ignition live feed like D7 on the white plug or does it need a relay?

- The picture below is of the existing No 43 relay for the coolant temp.  (It confused me a bit because it has 4 terminals: 15, 31, G, S.  What do the G and S stand for?)  There are the folowing wires:

2 x earths - 1 goes to the main earth point above the fusebox and the other went to the coolant bottle cap
1 x blu/red - this went to the coolant bottle cap as well
1 x red/yel - this went to pin d29 coolant temp sender
2 x blk/yel - 1 went to pin d7 on the white plug and the other as mentioned above to the white plug on the throttle body.



How do i wire this relay up now?  

I presume the earth and blu/red to the coolant bottle are ok still.  
Re-connect the red/yel to pin D29 on the white loom plug
Re-connect one of the blk/yel to pin D7 on the white loom plug
Should i ignore the other blk/yel wire or connect this to the lambda red/wht wire

the lambda needs a fuel pump feed, the wire hanging out of E/14 will be fine and you dont need a relay.

the relay is for coolant level, without it the gauge will still work but you need to reconnect the red/yel wire from the dash temp sensor in the bay to D/29 just you wont get the warning if the coolant is low. G is for gauge, S I assume is for sensor

I use all the ABF sensors for dash and oil, as they're neatly plumbed into the round plug on the engine. just need to splice them to the fusebox plugs of the same colour. oh fyi the early mk1s have the 2 oil pressure switch wire colours swapped for some reason so if oil pressure light goes weird try changing the sensor wires

wire it back up as it was before, the spare black/yellow wire was an ign live feed for something else so you could use it for e.g. engine electrics feed for ecu pin 38 & isv that used to connect to G2/4

ecu location is up to you, i would put it in the scuttle if it means you dont need to chop the ecu loom, as that'll make your life easier. assuming the plug ill fit thru the scuttle hole tho!  vac line just get a new one that reaches to your desired spot.

behind dash is ok too, but last thing you want to do is chop and solder it to get thru the hole you choose, as it'll be a nightmare if you ever have to remove the loom. you could get a holesaw and make a mk2/3 sized wiring hole then the ecu plug will fit thru

Got hold of a 55mm hole saw so will try and make the existing hole for the TCI loom a bit bigger and mount the ECU somewhere in the scuttle.  The plug will just pass through this size hole.

I forgot one question about more wiring!  

I have the immobiliser box all wired up correctly and have the diagnostic port to be put in the dash somewhere.  The prt has 4 wires going to it:

Brown - Earth
Gry/wht - Connected to gry wire on immobiliser box (then gry/wht goes to ECU wire 43)
Yellow - ??
Red/wht - ??

Are the other 2 wires needed?

yellow you can ignore, it doesnt do anything with the ecu. red/white is permanent live feed

factory place for the diagnostics live & earth is from the ciggy lighter, but can get em wherever is easiest for you

I managed to get a MK2 Coil off a car yesterday and my set of MK3 HT leads turned up today.  I fitted them and the car started  

Unfortunately it didn't continue running after the initial start it just dies.  Obviously the immobiliser i thought, so i plugged in VAG.com and it had the following log.  Does this mean i have wired up the immobiliser wrong or that the battery in the key is low.
The original key, ecu, immobiliser and ignition barrel ring are being used so i know they worked before in the MK3 donor car.
The battery from the key has 1.5V which sounds about right, so it must be the wiring, right?

On another note the engine sounds V loud without the exhaust connected!!  8O


Chassis Type: 1H - VW G/J/V Mk3
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,25,56
 

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Address 01: Engine
   Controller: 037 906 024 BE
   Component: DIGIFANT 3.2        1953    
1 Fault Found:
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
            P1570 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: N/A

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Skipping Address 15-Airbags

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Address 25: Immobilizer
   Controller: 1H0 953 257 B
   Component: IMMO VWZ3Z0T0301887 V00
   Coding: 09600
   Shop #: WSC 01315
1 Fault Found:
01176 - Key
            07-00 - Signal too Low

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